Lukman Taruna Persada Ramadan
The contemporary landscape of American fine dining has been progressively reshaped by experiential culinary concepts that transcend the traditional boundaries of a meal, transforming a standard evening out into a multi-sensory performance art production. Among the pioneers of this movement are the husband-and-wife culinary team Phillip Frankland Lee and Margarita Kallas-Lee, whose expanding empire of destination restaurants has consistently defied conventional geographic and conceptual expectations. Their latest high-altitude venture, Sushi by Scratch at the newly opened Grand Hyatt Deer Valley in Park City, Utah, represents a notable evolution in their portfolio. By fusing the intimate traditions of a Tokyo omakase bar with the rugged, breathtaking vistas of the Wasatch Range, the Lees have engineered an immersive 17-plus-course culinary journey that challenges preconceived notions of resort dining and redefines the luxury hospitality landscape in mountain destination towns.
From Humble Beginnings to a National Footprint
The trajectory of the Scratch Restaurants Group is a study in calculated risk, resilience, and an unwavering commitment to craft. The narrative began in 2013 with the launch of the original Scratch Kitchen, a concept that immediately signaled the couple’s unorthodox approach to high-end gastronomy. When an expired lease forced a relocation in 2015, the duo made the unconventional choice to set up shop in an unassuming strip mall in suburban Encino, California, rechristening the establishment Scratch Bar & Kitchen.
At that time, the San Fernando Valley was largely overlooked as a culinary desert devoid of innovative five-star dining options. Yet, the Lees’ uncompromising dedication to scratch-made ingredients—ranging from hand-churned butters and house-fermented soy sauces to meticulously aged proteins—generated an immediate and intense critical buzz. Discerning food enthusiasts from across Los Angeles cheerfully made the pilgrimage "over the hill," validating the concept that true destination dining relies on substance, creativity, and theatrical execution rather than a prestigious downtown address.
Building upon this foundational success, the original concept organically evolved into the multifaceted Scratch Restaurants Group. Rather than resting on their laurels in Southern California, the Lees embarked on a quiet yet aggressive national expansion strategy, planting their flag in select markets where high-end travelers seek out extraordinary, localized experiences. The debut of Sushi by Scratch at the Grand Hyatt Deer Valley earlier this year marks their most ambitious integration into a luxury resort property to date, bringing their signature omakase-style tasting menu to an international clientele of winter sports enthusiasts and summer mountain explorers.
The Pre-Dinner Ritual: Transitioning from Mountain to Speakeasy
The journey at Sushi by Scratch begins long before the first slice of fish touches the plate. Operating on a strict reservation schedule of three seatings per night, Wednesday through Sunday, the intimate 10-person experience requires absolute punctuality. The evening commences not within the dining room itself, but inside a plush, warmly lit lounge designed to disengage guests from the outside world.
Upon arrival, members of the small party are greeted with a series of impeccably constructed, bite-sized preludes prepared à la minute. These introductory morsels are paired with a sophisticated, visually unassuming cocktail crafted from premium sake, Japanese whiskey, and house-made ginger syrup. According to the venue’s front-of-house management, this intentional prelude serves a vital physiological purpose: to gently awaken and prime the palate for the complex array of flavors, temperatures, and textures that will unfold over the subsequent two hours.
Following this brief reception, guests are ushered through a doorway that serves as a portal, transporting them instantly from the sprawling alpine grandeur of Utah to an ultra-exclusive, moody speakeasy reminiscent of hidden alleyway establishments in Tokyo, Osaka, or Kyoto. The physical transformation is absolute. The room is wrapped in deep, dark tones, illuminated strategically to focus attention entirely on the refrigerated glass case and the pristine cold rail prep area.
Acoustic elements play a critical role in setting the atmosphere, with softly spinning 1920s-era Japanese big band music establishing a nostalgic, rhythmic cadence. This careful orchestration of lighting, sound, and spatial design deliberately mimics the intimacy of a close-up magic show, ensuring that every guest feels a direct, personal connection to the culinary artists at work.
Sourcing and Supply Chain: Bridging Tokyo and the Wasatch Range
Behind the immersive atmosphere lies a staggering logistical operation designed to ensure absolute freshness and authenticity. A substantial percentage of the fish, specialized seafood, and rare condiments utilized at Sushi by Scratch are flown in directly twice a week from Tokyo’s legendary Toyosu Fish Market, alongside select purveyors in Japan and premium local suppliers in Utah.
This rigorous supply chain guarantees that seasonal delicacies arrive at peak quality, ready to be transformed under the direction of Chef Josh Schrader. Upon entering the intimate dining space, guests are greeted by a back wall where the evening’s projected course lineup is arranged in a visual bento box format. Chef Schrader anchors the experience by introducing the foundational elements of the meal: freshly grated Japanese wasabi, signature house-fermented soy sauce, carefully calibrated Koshihikari short-grain rice, and an addictive, palate-cleansing pickled cucumber, ginger, and shiitake mushroom salad.
"We use Koshihikari short-grain rice that holds together well, so we prefer using prehistoric chopsticks—your fingers and hands—so be sure to wash them to be ready for the evening," Chef Schrader instructs the group, establishing an informal yet respectful rapport. "The black slab in front of you is not a coaster, but the place where we will hand you every bite throughout the evening. While it is convenient to move it closer to you when you are eating the course, we just ask that you put it back ahead of the next one. I will be giving a brief 10- to 15-second description of the bite, and if I can have your attention at that time, it would be greatly appreciated."
The Choreography of Service and Beverage Pairing
The execution of a 17-plus-course omakase for a seated party of ten requires military-grade precision and fluid choreography among the culinary team. While Chef Schrader and his fellow chefs rapidly slice, torch, and season delicate seafood and premium Wagyu beef—employing unconventional yet harmonious touches like prawn butter, black lava salt, Fresno chiles, and bone marrow—the beverage program operates in seamless tandem.
Liquid chef Asia Dove and her specialized bar team maintain a constant, unobtrusive presence to the side of the prep station. With remarkable speed and intuition, they pour and replenish precise pairings of premium sakes, rare Japanese whiskeys, crisp Japanese lagers, and light sake-based cocktails. Each beverage is thoughtfully selected to elevate, contrast, or soften the flavor profiles of the specific protein being served, bridging the gap between delicate oceanic notes and rich, torched finishes.
Despite the highly structured nature of the service, the atmosphere remains engaging rather than austere. Although conversation among guests is politely minimized during the active presentation phases to maintain focus on the culinary narrative, the communal seating arrangement fosters a shared sense of discovery. The two-hour event culminates with a seasonal matcha dessert crafted by Chef Margarita Kallas-Lee, leaving guests with a lingering impression of culinary artistry that bridges Southern California ingenuity with Japanese tradition.
Implications for Luxury Mountain Hospitality
The successful integration of Sushi by Scratch within the Grand Hyatt Deer Valley signals a broader structural shift in the hospitality expectations of luxury mountain resorts. Historically, high-altitude destinations relied heavily on traditional steakhouses, comfort-heavy alpine fare, or standard hotel dining rooms to feed affluent travelers. However, the proliferation of destination-defining, highly conceptual culinary residencies indicates that modern travelers increasingly demand metropolitan-caliber gastronomic innovation even in remote, natural settings.
By embedding an ultra-exclusive, 10-seat omakase experience into a major luxury resort, the Lees and the Grand Hyatt have established a new benchmark for property partnerships. For Park City, the arrival of Sushi by Scratch enhances the region’s culinary reputation, positioning the Wasatch Range not merely as a winter sports haven, but as a serious contender on the global fine-dining map. As the Scratch Restaurants Group continues its measured national growth, this high-altitude outpost stands as a testament to the power of intentional design, uncompromising sourcing, and the relentless pursuit of culinary theater.
Restaurant Information:
Sushi by Scratch at Grand Hyatt Deer Valley
1702 Glencoe Mountain Way
Park City, UT 84060
Phone: (435) 731-4658
Website: sushibyscratchrestaurants.com/parkcity
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